from kunming to nansan ports, from the kokang to wa, d.c., and from panghsang into the heart of the golden triangle-tachilek.the entire drive travel at 3000 km, unusual scenery along the way we met a lot of life, meet some unforgettable things more.
the burmese military is clearing a poppy fields
a morning in the autumn in september, we are made up of fourteen suv public ban du propaganda team has set up a file in the lincang city zhenkang county south umbrella myanmar port waiting to leave the country.the center of the front is a bridge, for the sino-burmese border, this is china, there is the first, dc-the kokang shan state in burma.look to the past, the burmese military is already set up to welcome our formation.
the army"to welcome"the reason is simple, the recent instability across northern burma, for reasons of security and foreign, the burmese government as we coordinate the north myanmar area in the departments of the government and non-governmental forces, ask them to try to provide convenience for our visit and the need to protect.despite the army to"by", but if you have individual mentality still it didn't come back.the story across borders, us into burma gate that moment!and we also as if through the door into the scene.
nansan sino-burmese border port
met wandering forever
suddenly popular song, banging away.escorting vehicles, leading tail, the burmese soldiers to hold a gun on the pickup;the burmese people along the street, a spontaneous standing, also has one unit lined up row set;and myanmar journalist, shoulder run before and after carrying cameras.a burmese old man from the street, right hand holding a bugle, a military-like salute to their left hand high, for our team, solemn demeanor, a stone-faced, defiant.the old man was blowing a bugle promenading again.although the tune its shape, but no people laugh at him.the burma army around guide told me that the old man is chinese, is a former nationalist army 93 division, a veteran.
the veteran trumpet
in front of courage, a long time ago just a primeval forest.for permanent calendar 300 years ago, the ming emperor under the qing troops counterattacked fled to kunming in yunnan province, all the way after being persecuted, wu sangui hundreds of army three way everlasting king and his mother, wife, and the people, the legacy and fled to burma by princes military commanders.king wu sangui forced myanmar surrender king and sent back to kunming, a year later with bowstring strangled by wu sangui forcing slope in kunming.words back in those days, king of the forever after death still drop, they had live in a desert land anonymity doggedly, after several generations.development up to now, they said today is still chinese, write the remains of chinese characters, is still retained the traditional customs of the chinese nation.even if myanmar forced renamed as"ethnic", but in their hearts, great northern is the home to return to their face.it is said, after britain occupied burma in the late qing dynasty, with the qing government border treaty in 1894, explicitly specify the kokang region belong to the jurisdiction of the chinese territory, but after 1897, under the pressure, will eventually resolute british burma.then, this belongs to the land of yunnan, became never back to the land, and adherents of ming will always be wandering faded and fallen.
the sino-burmese border myanmar side welcomed our myanmar military
chinese exclusion s in myanmar, the kokang people are not allowed to speak chinese, are not allowed to write chinese characters.since then, the kokang began to mutual distrust and burma.myanmar in 1950 to a bold person identification, boycotted by the collective.today, the kokang myanmar's id card is still less than five percent.100 years ago, in the southern silk road caravan of yunnan-guizhou plateau is active in this area, some of them also to survive here.then, and after the war of liberation by yunnan escape into myanmar's first nations 93 officers and soldiers, some moved to taiwan, which is given priority to with people in yunnan province has left more than 2000 people.these people, in the history the great flood, have no choice, and tenacious survival.i again remind of the blowing a bugle call old man, reminiscent of the fundus look dignified old man.
our team in the heat of the sun in the afternoon, flying dust, old streets, welcome people along the street and what the camera interweave, yinfeng hotel proudly into the kokang first dc.dinner, many local dignitaries.accompanied by a big present advice we ramble in the street after supper, and said they are safe:
"you speak chinese, clear."his fingers curled a little table,"said is yunnan words!"
i asked:"you exactly what is identity?"
a:"we jews as ever."
the kokang night, no lights, only opposite a narrow side street stores in the dim light dust and old hide.abruptly with a few points of dazzle gambling hall, a row of red light and the red light district intimate massage shop.light reflects the occasional passing left the car and the right way, which was of the old jeep and the united states during the second world war.
the kokang the demise of"hope"
at the beginning of the 20th century, due to the high temperature hot and humid climate here is rich in high quality of poppy(commonly known as the great smoky, from the poppy plant capsule), is jusande with bold old street, formed the annual bittern trade event.together to the chinese, thai, indian people, and the british.until five years ago, here was a yakou bazaar, tobacco farmers are selling opium scenario as general commodity as natural, but now the kokang has mandated that blanket prohibition on drugs!as du ban decree, in the local with a century of"economic chain"is cut off, this really how much impact to local lai the survival of people?
as if bleeding poppy
9 october each year is the time to myanmar poppy seeds, sesame seeds are smaller than only gray weed seeds in the soil and translate, earth cover again, before the fruit is mature all don't have to manage, so in the local poppy also referred to as"lazy crops".in february, when ma poppy flowers red, drop of blood, such as sun quartermaster exotic flowers full mountain air.poppy flowering only three days, then the result.want to use a special cut open in harvest fruit, collect outflow of ivory grout, stay white pulp after solidification will become a black or brown, this is opium.in april, the golden triangle surrounding around the opium trade has started.tobacco farmers are with selling opium money in exchange for salt, cloth and other daily necessities, in their ideas, opium is not du is tasted, but the medicine, or the survival of the crops.
the local old man
jolted along the rugged country road, carrying large mass of a remote smoke rushed into the stockade.stockade in very cold and cheerless, except a few lazy villagers from the street, is a few we barking dog kept on.i walked out of the car and asked a local:"100 years of poppy years, du ban not difficult?"which village, he told me:"if someone still dare to poppy, threw the village head into a two meters deep, only one person standing pit, let him die.if 15 days later, he was still alive, she pulled free."this is a small group of spontaneous formation of the punishment, are effective, du ban for three years, in the kokang region only one village head be punished.
at dusk, bold mountain mist-covered
the kokang troops bonfire night
the second day early in the morning, we came to the resolute anti-drug exhibition hall visit in dongcheng district, and then to the primary and middle schools in the kokang donations.after lunch, also watched the kokang temple.bold nearly hundred years history is all national armed independent regime, hero, frequent and drug trafficking.the local one is said to be the king forever areas of luo general, he's the tenth generation descendant before walking is southeast asia's largest drug;in addition, claiming to be han khun sa is a sublime golden triangle of the world's leading drug.in kokang chinese diaspora veterans held a chinese language school and training class, the teacher is yuanguojun whampoa military academy graduate, who walking and khun sa division of the school;peng jiasheng, commander in chief of beijing, fifty years-the golden triangle and was known as the"king of the kokang, was also the school students.
poppy fruit harvest
at half past four in the afternoon, escorted by the kokang army, we start from the kokang city to qingshui river meng, bridge, this is the best route to the golden triangle centre ground.in addition to large ganzhelin along highways(prohibition issued before this kind of is full of poppy fields), is stretches of wilderness, our team under the strong sunshine point-blank.after 20 minutes, appear in front of the mountains, fleet sailed away, straight into the stretch in the mountains.after about 45 kilometers, the team arrived in meng bridge.this is a triangular zone, one side to china's yunnan simao meng lian(now a region jurisdiction over), one from the kokang direction of the road, on the other side, as the actual control of the bridge is the second dc wa area.the kokang army could not enter the wa shan first dc, can only send us here, escorted by the wa united army took over.across the bridge, stand in the first, dc potou look back the shan, a history fades into the mist.the front of the team is mysterious wa clouds.
drive triangle diagram
(to be continued, welcome to chase play)